Hair Damage: It Is Not Your Fault

Experimenting how the level of pH within shampoos and conditioners contribute to hair damage.
Aastha Purohit
Grade 9

Hypothesis

Question

How does the pH level within hair products contribute to hair damage? Why? What type/base of hair product is the best to use?

Hypothesis

I hypothesize that the lower the pH levels within the hair product, the more hair damage it can cause. The acid levels within the hair product can cause the cuticles within the hair surrounding the scalp to slowly start to peel, eventually causing the strength of the hair to get damaged.

Research

What are pH levels?

  • Complete form: the potential of Hydrogen 
  • pH levels or scales are used to see how acidic or basic a substance is
  • The scale is from 0 (very acidic) to 14 (basic/ alkaline), 
    •  is water is neutral 7 

How is pH measured? 

  • An easy way to measure pH levels is with pH strips. 
    • Made with litmus paper
  • When the pH strip is touched to a particular substance, the colour will change to show how strong of an acid or basic it may be 
    • Red means acidic
    • Blue means alkali

How does a pH scale work? 

 

  • 0-6: More Hydrogen particles within the substance 
  • 8-14: More hydroxide particles within the substance 

Why would hair brands use alkalis within their products?

  • Hair brands usually use alkalis within their products so that the hair cuticles rise to absorb the product going within

How does alkali within your hair cause hair damage?

  • Extreme alkalinity can eat away skin and hair
  • Cause your hair's natural pH level to shift, causing dry hair 

Why would hair brands use acids within their products?

  • Help to restore the hair's natural acidity, which allows it to hold hair dye more efficiently 
  • Citric acid is most commonly used to bring pH levels down
    • Usually also reduces frizz

How do acids within your hair cause hair damage?

  • This causes the cuticle to stay open and become more receptive to damage

Is it better to use an acidic or alkaline hair product?

  • The use of more alkali hair products can cause the hair to seem rougher and dry (sublime life) 
  • A more acidic approach can cause more hair loss due to the cuticle hairs not being able to latch onto anything
  • A balance can benefit the hair to a better and healthier hair 
  • To maintain a good pH balance, it should vary from 3.5 to 4.5

 

Variables

  • Independent Variable: 

    • The Brand of Shampoos and Conditioner 
  • Dependent Variable: 

    • The pH levels that are measured 
  • Controlled Variable: 

    • Amount of product
    • Brand of pH strip 
    • Water temperature 
    • Amount of water 
    • Time left out to dry 
    • Same wig hair

Procedure

  • First, research what pH levels correspond with
  • Next, research about why hair product brands may benefit from using acids within their products
  • Later, research how acids/bases co-relate with hair damage 
  • Next, see how acids/base levels within hair products cause the hair, scalp and roots to get damaged 
  • After researching how the amount of acidity can cause more or less damage 
  • Test different hair products to see their pH levels and test them out on hair samples 
  • Create a table to compare the results

Observations

This project found that more alkalinity in some particular products tended to increase the rates of frizziness and dryness once used in the wig hair samples.  However, when a product contained more acidic bases, the hair wig sample seemed to remain the same as before or even better than the original state of the hair. 

Analysis

 

Comparing the Different pH and Their Effect on the Hair

χ= doesn't happen ✓= does happen Research-Based

pH Level 
Hair Frizz 
Cuticles weaken 
Split ends 
Dull Hair 
Hair loss 
4
5
 
χ
χ
6
χ
χ
7
χ
χ
χ
8
χ
χ
9
χ

 

Testing the pH of Different Shampoos 

Experiment based

Brand of Hair Product  
Type / Base
pH Level 
Argan Oil Hydrating Shampoo by Marc Antony 
Oil  
 pH of 5 
Dove:  Anti-Dandruff  Shampoo + Conditioner 
2 in 1
pH of 6
Biotique : Bio Soya Protein Shampoo
 Regular 
pH of 6
Patanjali: Hair Cleanser Shampoo
Regular
pH of 8
Slikk: Shampoo, Conditioner & Body Wash 
3 in 1
pH of 8
Native: Almond and Shea Butter 
Regular
pH of 7

 

Testing the pH of Different Conditioners

       Experiment based 

Brand of Hair Product 

Type / Base 

pH Level 

Live Clean Fresh Water Hydrating Conditioner 
Water 
 pH of 8
Clairol: Natural Instincts Brilliant Shine Conditioner 
Regular
pH of 7
L’oréal Paris: Casting Crème Gloss 
Regular
pH of 6.5
Argan Oil Hydrating Conditioner by Marc Antony 
Oil 
pH of 6 
Biotique : Bio Soya Protein Conditioner
Regular 
pH of 6

 

Conclusion

Conclusion from table

  • The use of oil-based shampoos and conditioners is the better option 
  • The worst regarding the 3 in 1 and some regular shampoos and conditioners

Conclusion

  • The best shampoo and conditioner for most hair types are oil-based (Argan- oil). 
  • Although acknowledging that using an acid and an alkaline hair product can balance out the damage that may form within the hair, I understand that my hypothesis was wrong and that using a more acidic hair product will not cause as much damage as a more alkaline product.

Application

This project can be applied to the real world because most people use shampoos and conditions; this project would benefit them by further enhancing their knowledge of how the products they are currently using could potentially help or damage their hair and use this information to change their daily use of shampoos and conditioners.  

Sources Of Error

My next step is to consider the time frame and repeated use of the shampoos and conditioners. I also want to evaluate the different hair types, whether they are dyed, and whether the hair has been affected by any diseases. I also want to add more variety and understand how to balance the pH to have a positive reaction from the mixture.

Citations

Dictionary.com. (n.d.). Dictionary.com. Retrieved February 11, 2024, from https://www.dictionary.com/browse/ph

Gavazzoni Dias, M. F., Pichler, J., Adriano, A., Cecato, P., & de Almeida, A. (2014). The shampoo pH can affect the hair: Myth or Reality? International Journal of Trichology, 6(3), 95. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-7753.139078

PH Full Form. (2020, June 9). BYJUS; BYJU’S. https://byjus.com/full-form/ph-full-form/

PH scale. (n.d.). Usgs.gov. Retrieved February 11, 2024, from https://www.usgs.gov/media/images/ph-scale-0

Stasko, N. (2023, December 11). Glycolic acid for hair loss: Benefits, risks & alternatives. Wimpoleclinic.com; Wimpole Clinic. https://wimpoleclinic.com/blog/glycolic-acid-for-hair-loss-benefits-risks-alternatives/

The Editors of Encyclopedia Britannica. (2024). pH. In Encyclopedia Britannica.

The pH of your hair care products is important. (2021, June 24). The Hair Routine.     https://www.thehairroutine.com/blogs/journal/ph-levels

(N.d.-a). Redken.com. Retrieved February 11, 2024, from https://www.redken.com/blog/what-is-hair-ph-and-why-is-it-important-for-my-hair.html#:~:text=SO%2C%20WHAT%20HAPPENS%20IF%20HAIR,such%20as%20breakage%20and%20frizz.

(N.d.-b). Sciencedirect.com. Retrieved February 11, 2024, from https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/nursing-and-health-professions/ph-measurement#:~:text=pH%20measurements%20have%20been%2C%20and,a%20millivoltmeter%20(pH%20meter).

(N.d.-c). Hair.com. Retrieved February 11, 2024, from https://www.hair.com/acidic-hair-care.html#:~:text=Acidic%20haircare%20products%20help%20to,align%20with%20hair's%20natural%20acidity.

 

Acknowledgement

  • I want to thank my family and friends, Mr. Rip and Mr. Klaassen, for helping me through the process of the Science Fair.