Too much, too soon? Inside the Sephora Kid Trend

This project covers a trend called Sephora Kids, basically kids who over consume and use adult anti-aging products. It covers psychological and human health components. I have been curious about this topic for quite a while and wanted to pursue it.
Maryam Yaqoob
William D. Pratt School
Grade 7

Presentation

No video provided

Hypothesis

When pre-teens get involved in the sephora kid trend it can have psychological effects on brains and effects on skin. Social media plays the biggest part in cognitive effects.

Research

Why can adult skincare products be harmful to tween skin? Adult skincare products can be harmful to younger skin, here’s why. Firstly tweens have thinner and more permeable skin barriers compared to adult skin. This means tween skin reacts differently to strong ingredients like retinoids and acids which are not meant for their skin. Another point is that tween skin has more oil production, which can make it more prone to acne, but when using adult products like anti-aging serums and collagen the skin can be stripped of oils leading to skin drying and becoming irritated. 

Why is Teen Skin Different?

Teen skin is different from adult skin in several key ways. It’s thinner and more sensitive, making it more prone to irritation from harsh ingredients found in adult skincare products. Hormonal changes increase oil production, leading to oily skin and acne, but teens can also experience dryness, especially if their skin is stripped of natural oils by harsh products. Additionally, teen skin has a faster regeneration rate, which can cause pores to clog more easily and result in breakouts. Teen skin’s immune system is still developing, so it’s more likely to react to allergens or chemicals, and it's also more sensitive to UV rays, making sun protection crucial. Because of these differences, products designed for adults, which often focus on anti-aging and use stronger ingredients like retinoids or exfoliating acids, can be too harsh and disruptive for teens. Instead, teen skin needs gentler, oil-controlling products that focus on acne prevention and hydration without over-stripping the skin’s natural barrier. 

Why do teens feel the need to use Adult products

Social media is a large reason for this. Influencers are cited as the cause for teens and younger kids using anti-aging and other age prevention products. Piper Sandler, an investment bank, surveyed the shopping habits of nearly 9,200 teens and found out that teen skincare spending had increased by 19% (Guardian). Dermatologists say that skincare solutions on social media like TikTok offer little to no benefit to teen skin, but  can even be harmful. It was found that only a quarter of skincare routines included sunscreen which can ruin skin. In California Alex Lee, a member of the state assembly is attempting to pass a bill which prevents kids under 18 from purchasing any anti-aging products but it won’t stop the “Sephora Kids” (CBC).

Psychological factors of “Sephora Kids”.

Teens and younger children are very influenced by peers. In the case of Sephora Kids it is FOMO (fear of missing out). When kids see what others have they feel like they need it as well in order to fit in or to gain social acceptance. The fear of being “uncool” or left out can push kids to engage in behaviors that are not age appropriate, in this case buying products that are not meant for them, because it makes them feel like they’re accepted and “cool”. If one kid buys a product whether or not it's meant for them, other kids feel like they should also have the same thing which can make it like a chain reaction from kid to kid. They are also naturally curious and want to engage in activities their parents or older peers are doing. The sephora kid trend can be an example of this. It can be harmless until kids start using products that are definitely not meant for their use, which can ruin skin barriers for a long time. A large factor, maybe even the largest is social media. Kids and teens today are very exposed to social media like YouTube, Instagram, Snapchat, TikTok etc. This leads to them watching Influencers, sometimes being young as well, promoting beauty products that even they should not be using. (familidoo)

What problems have been seen with Sephora kids-

Some employees have seen kids crying alone in beauty stores, some have seen parents shoplifting just to make their kids happy, some have even witnessed kids buying anti-aging products like retinol. Though this is a huge problem in the beauty industry, why is no one taking responsibility? Sephora themselves have tried to distance themselves, since selling anti-aging products to children is not a good look. Drunk Elephant, a popular skincare company, was linked with this trend, since its brightly coloured packaging was attracting kids. Recently it reported a 65% decrease in sales, which most people blame on losing adult customers. Sephora workers are dealing with this every day however. They have to answer kids wanting to buy retinols, tantrums, and their stores getting trashed. Parents treat Sephora workers like babysitters while they go and shop. Some workers deal with kids buying serums or other items that are definitely not appropriate for their skin even with a parent present. When parents are confronted, some even say that they saw the products on TikTok and decided to buy them (Guardian). That is a psychological problem if people, even older generations, have begun to rely on social media for what they should purchase instead of their own minds. According to CBS LA Gen Alpha has spent 2.4B dollars on skincare and makeup in 2023. 

What do children actually need?

According to Yale Medicine dermatologist Kathleen Suozzi MD most kids need no more than a gentle cleanser, water, simple moisturizer, and mineral sunscreen (not chemical). She says “If they don’t have a condition such as acne or eczema, their skin care should be aimed at protecting and supporting the ideal skin environment they have at their age.” Instead of viewing needs kids have started looking at what they want, and definitely don’t need. Their research has shown that 20% of teens and pre-teens surveyed spend upwards to $50 a month on products they do not need, and layer 5 or more products. Unfortunately this survey has been proven true by many, and way too many kids spend their parents money, or theirs on this. (Yale Medicine) 

What ingredients are actually bad for pre-teen and teen skin?

According to Dr. Suozzi MD here is what’s bad for skin. 

  • Fragrance and perfumes- which are a common cause of allergic contact dermatitis ( an itchy, red skin rash from your immune system overreacting to something that touches your skin, like nickel, poison ivy, fragrances, or preservatives, causing inflammation, redness, swelling, and blisters) and skin irritation. 
  • Alcohols, which strip the natural skin barrier, the protective layer on the outermost surface of the skin, and cause dryness. Examples include denatured alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, and ethanol.
  • Harsh acids or chemical peels, which cause redness and peeling to thin, sensitive skin. Avoid glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and strong AHAs/BHAs.
  • Retinoids and retinol, which can cause skin irritation. Both are used to treat acne, but are not appropriate for pediatric use without a prescription.
  • Chemical sunscreens, which include filters such as oxybenzone or octinoxate that can be irritating for kids. There is also concern that they could cause hormonal disruption in children. Mineral sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are safer.
  • Parabens and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, which can cause irritation. Avoid methylparaben, DMDM hydantoin, and quaternium-15.
  • Pore-clogging or comedogenic oils, which can worsen acne. Avoid coconut oil, cocoa butter, and lanolin.

(Yale Medicine)

Can this lead to mental concerns?

A quote from Sonia Rodrigues states “Social media influencers are expanding their target group, often placing a lot of pressure on kids to fit in and figure out what’s trending to feel connected with their friends at an earlier age. It’s hard to even find appropriate clothes for this age group, when developmentally, they’re just trying to figure out where they fit in. There’s a lot of identity issues happening in those preteen years, and children are absorbing content that is not necessarily age-appropriate, which makes it crucial to have these conversations with your kids about what’s appropriate for their age group while also ensuring they feel a sense of autonomy. When kids feel like they don’t fit in or cannot relate to their friend group, this can cause feelings of anxiety or depression.” (Newswise) This basically means that when kids feel left out it can lead to them feeling depressed or causing anxiousness. It can also cause absorption of content like in our context, using aging serums, which can lead to wanting these for themselves which they don’t know at the time can 100% ruin their skin barrier. 

Who is to blame?

Many critics blame social media but what about the industries? What some people forget is that companies mislead consumers (kids) by making the packaging look kid-friendly and since most people don’t understand what specific ingredients are, they buy retinols and vitamin c serums for their kids. If companies don’t want to mention specifically that their products are anti-aging they don’t have to, which can mislead kids and cause problems in the future. Basically many people believe companies are cashing in on younger consumers. Though young consumers may not understand what's going on right now, if this keeps happening they could regret it later. Many parents also don’t understand what is good for their kids and feel bad not listening to their kids which can lead to them buying retinols and serums just because “TikTok said it was good.” This is ruining the skin and wellbeing of kids. (CBS) Annual skincare sales skyrocketed from 7.8B to 9.2B from 2019-2022 according to TODAY. This is because of young consumers. 

What is pH and Why Does it matter for Skin?

pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline a substance is, ranging from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. Skin has a natural pH that is slightly acidic, usually between 4.5 and 5.5, which helps maintain a healthy skin barrier and protects against bacteria and environmental damage. When the pH balance of the skin is disrupted by products that are too acidic or too alkaline, it can weaken the skin's protective barrier, leading to dryness, irritation, and even conditions like acne. Using products with a pH that is too high or too low for your skin type can make it harder for your skin to stay hydrated, fight off bacteria, and maintain its natural functions. Therefore, choosing skincare products with a pH that matches your skin’s natural level is important for keeping your skin healthy and balanced. Many adult products do not have this balance which could lead to problems in audiences that are not meant for the product. What many don’t understand is that pH is very important to measure when buying products. If it is measured properly it can help to prevent skin from dryness and other problems. 

Why are Adult Products Different from Teen Products?

Adult products have many concerns for kids. Firstly it can cause premature breakouts which can lead to concerns. Secondly, chronic irritation and inflammation compromises the skin barrier, which negatively affects the skin’s ability to protect itself from environmental stressors like pollution and UV radiation. Kids have a lot of collagen, the most they will ever have. Most collagen breakdown does not begin until they at least reach their 20s and that’s the earliest. Starting to use adult products like Vitamin C serums, glycolic acids, and retinols can make kids begin to lose collagen early. A thin skin barrier can make rashes or infections happen more easily. This is why kids and teens need to stick to a more basic routine that will help their skin. Just because an influencer says that a product is good for their skin, it does not make it necessarily good for another's skin. Skin should be based on your skin type and needs, not someone else’s. (mother.ly) Can hyperfocus on skincare be detrimental?

Hyperfocus can definitely be detrimental, here’s why. Firstly the internet shows us that “glassy, clear skin” is the best instead of saying that healthy functioning skin is good and important. This can cause people, even kids to start questioning their skin and want to change it, even if it’s perfectly fine. As well as the “Sephora Kid” trend some young people want to get botox just to be “perfect”. This is caused by social media in most cases, and the stereotype that being perfect is better. This is called Dermorexia, a disorder that means having a fixation on skincare, and reaching an aesthetic goal, that could quickly become harmful, and harm skin and mental wellbeing, says Jessica DeFino a beauty researcher, writer, and critic of The Review of Beauty. How this can be prevented at least in kids can be to educate them about why influencers and other people promote products, so that they learn not to believe everything influencers say. (dazeddigital)

What brands are most kids buying?

For makeup, it is drugstore brands that are a lot cheaper than high end, with e.l.f ranking first with Covergirl, Maybelline, L'Oréal, and Revlon following behind it. They are capitalizing the most on kids. This is mostly because many parents cannot afford expensive makeup, so their kids lean more towards drugstore brands.  For skincare, it is also brands on the cheaper side that have a reputation for using good ingredients that people trust. CeraVe ranks first with Neutrogena, Cetaphil, and Aveeno following in its footsteps. Prestigious brands like Drunk Elephant don’t make up for a large part of the market share with only \~1/10 kids purchasing it. 

The “Skincare Smoothie” trend-

The skincare smoothie trend is a trend where people mix two or more products together to speed up their routine. An example of this is mixing bronzing drops and moisturizer for a glow effect on skin. It seems like a harmless trend, but what combinations are not a good idea. Firstly mixing sunscreens and moisturizers isn't that harmful but it can take away the effectiveness of the SPF. Another mixture is retinols and alpha hydroxy acids, which can lead to major irritation. Kids should not be using these products anyways. Another is Vitamin C and retinols because vitamin c requires low pH (acidity) to work and retinols require high pH (alkaline) to be effective. Using both together makes both products useless and can cause irritation for those with sensitive skin. Since these products are anti-aging kids should steer clear of these products anyways but for other audiences these should not be mixed. 

Hauls, PR and GRWMs 

These are very common makeup trends found on social media. Hauls are where people go and buy things from stores and show them on social media. Many Gen Alpha influencers do this and show people online what they have bought/received. It can cause other kids watching them to want the same items. PR is short for public relations which in social media means to strategically use a person's online image to promote their product. Brands pay influencers and give free products to them. What kids do not understand is that PR comes for promoting and money, influencers are not just getting free stuff. The last trend is GRWMs which is short for get ready with me. Influencers talk about their lives while using beauty products. Some of these are also promotions for brands. Newer brands such as Bubble and Glow Recipe are very in touch with social media to encourage Gen Alpha to purchase their products. It helps them make money off of purchases and off of their social media pages. 

How is it different from marketing to normal adult consumers?

According to Luis Garcia CMO of Naterra the parent company of popular skincare brand Tree Hut, “Older demographics may still respond well to polished campaigns and traditional brand storytelling, but younger consumers want a two-way relationship where they can shape the narrative, give feedback instantly, and feel like the brand reflects their identity and values.” This means that younger audiences want to feel connected like a community when they’re purchasing items. (forbes)

Where are products marketed to Gen Alpha?

Heeyon Kang, someone who works on Korean skincare brand fwees US marketing team says that the best way to engage with young consumers is through TikTok. “With its short form format, it’s the perfect space for today’s fast-paced audiences to quickly discover, engage, and even shop, especially with TikTok Shop making instant purchases easier than ever.” says Kang. Since many kids nowadays are on TikTok and other apps it helps them showcase their products for people to buy. Kids are also influenced easily which works in the companies favour. (forbes)

What attracts Gen Alpha?

Nostalgia and throwback are huge for Gen Alpha according to Tree Huts Garcia. A collaboration between Tree Hut and Peanuts was a great mix of nostalgia and throwbackness which attracted Gen Alpha buyers. I also believe that brands using colour or designs in their products can also attract kids since kids love colours and designs galore.  (Forbes) I also believe due to my experience I also like things that other peers have and say are good so I also want to buy what others say is good. 

My ultimate take on this trend:

Based on the months of research and effort I have put into finding out more about this trend I have come to the conclusion that my hypothesis is correct. My hypothesis is that getting involved with this Sephora Kids trend will hurt the skin and wellbeing of kids. If someone were to ask me if I think that this trend is “just for fun” I would say that it is most definitely not. If an innocent trend is causing skin problems and kids to develop image issues, then why is it innocent? Though kids and adults may not see it now this trend can cause major issues in the future. If kids now start using anti-aging products what will be of their skin when they actually turn the age of using aging products. Overconsumption affects our environment too even if it doesn’t seem like it. We should steer clear of this trend. Parents should also educate their children on what they need and take charge.

Variables

My independent variable is that i am changing the person and grade when getting my data to make it more inclusive and to get a more broad . My controlled variables are that the questions of my survey remain the same so that I can get data. My dependent variable is the answers people will give to my questions.

Procedure

My procedure is surveying at least 6 kids from each Grade ( Grades 5-7 ) at my school. I believe it will help me find a broader view especially since these grades are who this trend are targeted at. I will also research from several reputable sites to find out more about this trend and how it affects kids psychologically and how it affects kids dermatologically.

Observations

From what I have observed doing this project, most girls from grades 5-7 use at least skincare, while not all use makeup. Most people seem to understand that using anti-aging products can affect skin negatively and basically all girls don't use them.

Analysis

Usage of beauty products:

Use them- 16.6% Do Not use them- 83.3%

Usage of Anti-aging ingredients:

Use them 11.11% Do Not use them- 88.89%

Steps in routine:

1- 38.89% 2-3- 27.78% 3-4- 22.22 5 plus- 11.11

Peer Pressured or not-

Not- 83.3% Pressured- 16.67%

Researching Products-

Do- 55.56% Do Not- 44.44%

Conclusion

Based on the months of research and effort I have put into finding out more about this trend I have come to the conclusion that my hypothesis is correct. My hypothesis is that getting involved with this sephora kids trend will hurt skin and well-being of kids. If someone were to ask me if I think that this trend is “just for fun” I would say that it is most definitely not. If an innocent trend is causing skin problems and kids to develop image issues, then why is it innocent? Though kids and adults may not see it now this trend can cause major issues in the future. If kids now start using anti-aging products what will be of their skin when they actually turn the age of using aging products. Over-consumption affects our environment too even if it doesn’t seem like it. We should steer clear of this trend. Parents should also educate their children on what they need and take charge.

Application

I applied my hypothesis by researching my topic and surveying kids at school. I believed this was the best way to do it. The kids that I surveyed were females from grades 5-7. These grades were the most affected age group of this trend.

Sources Of Error

My sources of error are the surveys being short and broad, and not surveying a lot of people for a better understanding. Next time if I did this project again I would like to do longer surveys that are spread out to more people. This time I got 6 people from each grade to do my survey but if I were to do this again I would survey at least ten.

Acknowledgement

I would like to acknowledge all of the websites which I used to get my research and photos from. I would also like to acknowledge everyone who participated in my survey since this would not be possible without them. I would like to acknowledge by family and friends for supporting me through this project. Lastly I would like to acknowledge my Science Fair Coordinators Mr. Hagen and Mr. Badr for being supportive of my project.